27 87: Pioneering a New Era of Niche Perfumery
*27 87
*27 87
In an industry where the ephemeral nature of scent meets the timeless allure of storytelling, Romy Kowalewski, the visionary founder of 27 87, stands as a beacon of innovative perfumery. Drawing from a deeply personal narrative, Romy shares the intriguing journey behind the inception of 27 87, a brand born from a lifelong fascination with niche fragrances and an epiphanic visit to a perfume production facility. This brand is a homage to a heritage rich in aromatic exploration and a forward-looking gaze into the cultural and social zeitgeist through olfactory experiences.
Romy's approach to fragrance creation is a harmonious blend of art and science, tradition and innovation, each scent meticulously crafted to encapsulate the spirit of the times we live in. From the pandemic-inspired 'flaneur' to the economically reflective 'rule of 72,' 27 87's fragrances are more than just perfumes; they are narratives distilled into bottles, each telling its own story of the current state of the world. In this intimate conversation, she reveals the essence of creating scents that transcend traditional gender boundaries, the role of sustainability in their production, and the profound connection between scent and emotion. Join us as we explore the olfactory journey of 27 87, where every fragrance is an invitation to experience the now, challenge conventions, and co-create stories of individuality and modernity.
Can you share the story behind the creation of 27 87 and what inspired you to embark on this venture? I’ve been exposed to niche fragrances from an early age, since my mom was a “perfume freak” as you call the collectors now. Hence, perfumes were in my life all the time. Later, while studying in Barcelona we were visiting several companies, and during one of such visits I was able to see how a fragrance is produced and launched to the market. During that visit, I decided that I will do my fragrance brand.
How does your personal philosophy shape the creation of your fragrances? Every fragrance reflects the moment we culturally and socially are going through. For example, flaneur was created during the pandemic, when our travels were limited and all we could do was wander in the city. rule of 72 is motivated by the current situation in the economy - inflation, green banking and other trends and changes. 27 87 fragrances reflect the times we live in.
As a German-born designer based in Barcelona, how has the city influenced your creative process and the identity of 27 87? A lot! Barcelona is part of our brand mindset. Instead of telling the story of a brand, we created 27 mindset rules:
You've spoken about fragrances being an expression of individuality. How do you envision people using your scents to express their personal stories?
The wearer will create their own story by living the NOW with 27 87 scent in use.How do you approach creating a scent that transcends traditional gender boundaries?
For me it is important to start with the definition “modern perfumery”. What is modern? What is modern now? Once these are defined, I reflect on what influenced me personally lately, look at the state of culture and an idea comes to my mind..."Genetic Bliss" is described as a molecular perfume. Could you elaborate on what this means and how it affects the scent's interaction with the wearer's skin? Genetic Bliss is a molecular perfume designed to adapt to your body’s unique natural scent, it’s infused with woody notes like akigalawood, belambra, and creamy sandalwood for a fragrance as singular as your genetic code. With five exclusive captives. Their simplified molecular structure adapts to the skin in a better way by adapting to the body’s unique natural scent while flirting at the same time with comforting versatile woody notes. As a molecular perfume, this fragrance does not evolve over time, but blends consistently and linearly into its surroundings. Great as a stand-alone or in combination with other 27 87 perfumes.
How did you go about conceptualizing and capturing the fleeting nature of the present moment in the fragrance 'Per Se'? This fragrance was released to celebrate our 7th Anniversary and capture the essence of NOW: Seven years into our journey, 27 87 stands tall, matured, and bold. Per sē is the antithesis of a traditional modern perfume. Modernity, of course, evolves and changes with time, and time is always in flux. For a scent to be called modern, it must also change over time. We’re always evolving, so it just wouldn’t make sense to claim our scent is modern if it doesn’t change along with us. Either you go with the times, or you go with time. On her poetic endeavor with Per sē, perfumer Shyamala Maisondieu reflects, “In creating Per sē, I aimed to capture the very essence of the present moment. This fragrance is unparalleled; it ebbs and flows with the dynamism of change, yet its core remains strikingly constant.”
How does the design of your perfume bottles reflect the philosophy and essence of 27 87? Our opaque bottles protect the liquid from the light and are viewed like canvases.
This is part of our mindset: We co-create rather than dictate. To us, the Now is a blank canvas that expresses the unfinished. It is a symbol of perpetual newness; the belief that we are always in progress, and that it’s not necessary to define a beginning or end. We float.Do you have a personal favorite among the 27 87 creations? If so, what makes it special to you? Currently I’m indulging myself in per sē. But I can say that sonar holds a special place in my fragrance wardrobe…
