Marine Fountain of Youth: The Deep Science and Philosophy behind edulis cosmetics
*EDULIS
*EDULIS
In the picturesque region of Cap Ferret, a unique merger between nature's ancient guardians and cutting-edge science is unfolding. François Canac, an engineer and cosmetic chemist, has harnessed the regenerative properties of oysters to craft a line of beauty products that promise more than just fleeting results. The brand edulis cosmetics stands at the convergence of multiple scientific domains, offering a potent blend of biochemistry, dermatology, and toxicology, among others. In this conversation, François Canac delves deep into his journey, from discovering the oyster's untapped potential to the formulation of products that prioritize both efficacy and environmental stewardship. He speaks about the brand's commitment to transparency, sustainability, and its unwavering dedication to eco-conscious innovation. As edulis charts a future rooted in natural protection and scientific validation, it beckons the beauty industry to reflect on its relationship with nature and challenges it to reimagine sustainable solutions. Join us as we unravel the story of edulis cosmetics, a tale where the bounties of the ocean meet the rigors of the laboratory.
The role of a chemist in the beauty industry is crucial. Can you share your personal journey and how your expertise as an engineer and cosmetic chemist has shaped the development of edulis cosmetics?
Cosmetology is at the crossroads of several sciences: chemistry, biochemistry, biology, dermatology, toxicology, and physics of materials. The development of any cosmetic product involves all these sciences. The chemist oversees the formulation, which is the art of finding the best ingredients and assembling them in a way that is compatible with skin.
I had the opportunity to get laboratory experience at a major cosmetic company that carried out all their scientific development in-house. For edulis, my role at the technical level is to determine who are the best partners with which to outsource, notably in Brittany where I have a strong network.
I then work in collaboration with these experts during the different phases of development by evaluating results based on the specific parameters that were given, and by being physically present during sensory evaluation of the formulas for example.
As a co-founder and chemist, can you share with us the scientific principles behind edulis cosmetics and how it effectively addresses common skin concerns?
edulis is based on an exclusive formula that utilizes the regenerating properties of oysters in a way that benefits skin. Our first principle is to find the absolute best possible oyster extract that contains all the necessary active ingredients and nutrients (including oyster milt) under strict conditions that guarantee optimal purity and control. Our second principle is to find the best possible formulation that allows our product to be bio-available for the skin and non-aggressive for the cutaneous integument, in order to protect the cutaneous microbiota.
edulis cosmetics is known for its unique patent on the extraction process of edulis oyster extract with powerful skin benefits. Can you provide insight into this patented extraction method and how it contributes to the efficacy of your products?
Our patent concerns the procedure for obtaining the extract as well as its anti-aging effects on the skin. Each extraction undergoes in vitro tests, and depending on the results of these tests, the best suited method is chosen to obtain the extract.
edulis cosmetics has a strong focus on harnessing the power of nature in its skincare products. Can you elaborate on the inspiration behind this approach and how it aligns with the brand's values and mission?
Oysters are a marine organism which, in their beautiful simplicity, have been able to develop protective mechanisms enabling it to survive for hundreds of thousands of years despite all the environmental attacks they've had to undergo. The ability of an oyster to protect itself was our first source of inspiration. We were surprised to encounter unknown amino acids specific to oysters and this led us to believe that we had discovered a real treasure!
The legend of edulis has played a significant role in the brand's identity. Can you delve into the story behind edulis and how it has shaped the development and philosophy of edulis cosmetics?
The legend of edulis is a vast story incorporating the creation of Cap Ferret, the science and history of oysters, as well as the creation of the skincare brand edulis. In order to understand the brand edulis you need to understand the oyster (rich in proteins, amino acids, minerals and vitamins, venerated by the Ancient Romans for its many therapeutic virtues), Cap Ferret (situated on a peninsula that lies between the powerful ocean and natural underground springs, born from sand and seaweed, forming the perfect backdrop for edulis) and the encounter of an oyster farmer and scientist that led to the exceptional discovery of the powers of oysters on the skin.
Sustainability is a core value at edulis cosmetics. How does the brand incorporate eco-friendly practices into its product development and manufacturing processes? And how do you ensure that the sourcing of ingredients aligns with sustainable principles?
First of all, it’s Philippe Réveleau, oyster farmer and co-founder of edulis, who is cultivating and harvesting the key ingredient: oysters from Cap Ferret (it goes without saying but of course there are no mutated triploid oysters in his parcs) so the circuit couldn’t be shorter. We collaborate with two laboratories in Brittany for the development of our skincare products. These laboratories are pioneers when it comes to sustainability, and experts within organic raw materials and active ingredients from the sea. Specialized in the combination of technology and nature, they were able to accompany us in the creation of the patented edulis oyster extract. We chose these laboratories for our common values; the selection of the raw materials follows very strict specifications in terms of environmental management, socio-economic impact and product quality management. All of our products are developed in France and we follow the process from beginning to end. We are striving towards being even more sustainable when it comes to our packaging but unfortunately it is not as easy as one might think when hearing everyone talk about eco-friendly packaging (most just imply that it's recyclable). When we tested a new packaging made with recycled plastic for example, it did not pass the compatibility tests. We continue to exchange with suppliers in order to find more eco-friendly options that do not compromise the quality of our products.
Can you tell us more about the research and development that goes into creating edulis cosmetics' formulations? How do you strike a balance between the power of science and the use of natural ingredients in your products?
There was a specific part of oysters that had not yet been exploited by edulis: the shell.
Our first observation was that the mineral constitution of the outer shell allowed us to deduce its exfoliating properties. We use this property in our purifying gel; it's all about dosage and micronization of the shell to obtain this non-aggressive, light exfoliating action.
Our second observation was regarding the mother-of-pearl inside the shell. Like the exterior, it's made of calcium carbonate, but the structure is different, giving it this pearly white appearance that actually reflects light. We had an idea that this could be used to protect the skin from UV rays. In order to make this calcium bio-available for skin, we found that the protein conchioline could be combined with it and provide the necessary cement.
By working with natural elements, we take part in protecting nature. However, we had to show proof. With the help of the regional council of Brittany, we studied the influence of different formulations on marine corals. Our study was done in aquariums with 50 species of cultured corals from Camaret Sur Mer. We were able to conclude with the least aggressive formula possible, containing only natural ingredients, including a mineral filter and our oyster extracts.
The brand's commitment to transparency is evident in its labeling and ingredient disclosure. How do you educate consumers about the importance of understanding the ingredients in their skincare products and make informed choices?
We see that consumers are more and more aware and educated today. They ask for transparency and make their own conclusions. Consumers have learned that a label is not necessarily a guarantee for quality nor sustainability (also from a brand perspective they require a lot of time and money). We choose to put our time, energy and money into creating effective products of the highest quality with well-sourced ingredients and all of our products are made from more than 99% natural ingredients. On our website we highlight the key ingredients in each product and explain the formulation process. Those who have a higher understanding of chemistry or who want to verify specific ingredients might ask for the full INCI list with the scientific terms. All our products have excellent scores on Yuka (100/100 for the purifying gel and serum and 93/100 for the day and night creams). We also communicate the results of the clinical studies conducted, which demonstrate the efficiency of our products.
Can you share any success stories or testimonials from customers who have experienced notable improvements in their skin health and appearance after using edulis cosmetics products?
In addition to the clinical studies where we examined the positive effects of the regenerating impact of our products (tightening effect, reduction in appearance of wrinkles, improved elasticity, brightening effect for dark spots) we have received incredible feedback from our clients. On our website edulis-cosmetics.com clients can leave reviews for each product and we are thrilled to have received great testimonials. We also get a lot of messages on Instagram from influencers and journalists who have seen great improvement of their skin since using edulis. Having our customers love the products and sharing their experience is what’s most important to us in the end.
Looking ahead, what can we expect from edulis cosmetics in terms of future product development and innovation? Are there any exciting plans or initiatives on the horizon that you can share with us?
The regenerating effect of our patented oyster extract has a lot of potential for various areas of the body but for now we are looking to expand our skincare line. We have made incredibly exciting discoveries within SPF using mother-of-pearl as a UVA filter and creating a formula that is not absorbed by the coral reefs, making it truly ocean friendly. It is, however, extremely difficult to claim new filters (it usually takes a decade to get approval from the EU, not to mention the budget involved) so we still face some difficulties before we can launch a sunscreen on the market. We also hope that the beauty industry and the EU will impose tests and certificates around the « ocean friendly » labeled products because there is a lot of greenwashing today which makes it difficult for consumers to understand the true impact of products on the environment. Some brands claim to be « ocean friendly » having tested their products on algae only, for example, meaning that it’s most likely simultaneously killing the coral reefs. All progress on ocean protection is good, we just hope for more clarity and guidelines.
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Interview by Jalila Levesque
Photo credit: Edulis Cosmetics