Behind the Gloss: Exploring Beauty Narratives with Melanie Mendelewitsch
MÉLANIE MENDELEWITSCH
MÉLANIE MENDELEWITSCH
Welcome to this conversation with Melanie Mendelewitsch, a French prolific journalist and novelist whose expertise in beauty, skincare, and wellness has graced the pages of esteemed publications such as L'Officiel, Elle, Vanity Fair, Bazaar France, and Les Échos. Melanie's insightful writing and incisive commentary have helped shed light on the complexities of the beauty industry, debunking myths and guiding readers towards a more informed and conscious beauty routine.
As the mastermind behind Pitch Please, Melanie expertly crafts compelling narratives for beauty and wellness brands, and she's poised to share her unique insights and perspective on the art of storytelling within the industry.
Throughout your career, you have had the opportunity to work with prestigious publications such as L'Officiel, Le Monde, Vanity Fair, Bazaar France, and GQ... How did your interest in beauty, skincare, and wellness journalism develop, and how has your passion evolved over time?
From a young age, I found myself irresistibly drawn to the realm of beauty, although it would be some time before I began articulating this passion through writing. My mother fondly recounts tales of how, as a child, I'd accompany her on grocery runs and forgo the candy aisle for mini shopping carts, which I'd enthusiastically stock with an array of moisturizers, scrubs, and creams.
My fascination with the societal implications surrounding beauty standards has been a constant thread throughout my career. When I embarked on my journey in the cultural press back in 2010, my writings spotlighted a then-emerging starlet named Kim Kardashian, whose influential physique was setting powerful precedents in popular culture. My explorations led me to probe into societal obsessions like the cult of thinness, eventually steering my focus towards the ascension of aesthetic medicine - its growing acceptance, its excesses, and the resultant industry devoted to perpetuating standardized beauty norms. These subjects, now headline-grabbing topics, continue to captivate me, and I relentlessly delve into their evolution.
Over the years, I've broadened my perspective by writing about diverse lifestyle aspects. In 2015, my passion and commitment were rewarded with an opportunity at L'Officiel to exclusively cover beauty-related topics. This marked the beginning of a more profound exploration into the beauty industry, getting acquainted with its key players, assessing its financial impact, and dissecting the intricacies that exist behind the glamorous façade.
The beauty and skincare industry has witnessed numerous innovative and exciting advancements in recent years. Could you share some of the groundbreaking developments that have caught your attention?
I was born in the mid-80s, and like many women of my generation, my perception of beauty was initially influenced by ads and marketing claims that shaped my desires for skincare and treatments, for better or worse! After years of enduring misleading advertising and commercially-driven complexes, we've been witnessing a shift towards scientifically validated discourse in recent years. It always fascinates me to engage with dermatologists and scientists about the technological achievements of certain products aimed at slowing down the skin aging process, for instance. Ironically, some of the most impressive discoveries are rooted in ancestral approaches that I've had the opportunity to explore in-depth through expert knowledge. Traditional Chinese medicine, for example, was a realm I knew little about, yet it continues to astonish me, as does Ayurveda. By the way, I regret that these philosophies are sometimes misappropriated and diluted of their original meaning by opportunistic entrepreneurs.
As a skilled journalist and storyteller, what techniques do you employ to captivate your audience and make complex beauty and skincare topics more accessible and relatable?
Let's not fool ourselves, the press remains dependent on its advertisers, who wield significant influence in the beauty and cosmetics industry and contribute to the survival of vulnerable media outlets. As journalists, we face the challenge of striking a balance between these commitments and the desire to showcase more under-the-radar initiatives. As an independent journalist with a considerable degree of freedom, I strive to demystify beauty diktats, address topics that intertwine with societal issues, and avoid confining myself to impersonal product reviews that, frankly speaking, interest very few people. I prioritize gathering insights from sociologists and dermatologists, expanding the editorial landscape, and simplifying the discourse while steering clear of relying solely on commercial arguments.
In the midst of an abundance of beauty myths and misinformation, how do you approach the task of debunking these misconceptions and providing evidence-based information to your readers?
In my own work, I aim to demystify certain beauty diktats and common misconceptions. I am particularly attentive to surface-level discourses, success stories of entrepreneurs manufactured out of thin air (especially the excessive "Girlboss" narrative), and the phenomenon of greenwashing, which is prevalent in an industry driven by image and storytelling. I strive to go beyond surface-level discourses and confront certain brand founders with their contradictions when necessary. Due to the nature of my profession, I'm often asked for my opinion on supposedly miraculous brands, particularly by young women who are heavily influenced by social media. I try to be as honest as possible, making consumers understand that absolutely NO cosmetic brand will transform their skin. While some products may enhance and improve the appearance, genetics and lifestyle choices play a fundamental role, in my opinion. I attempt to avoid reproducing scripted discourses and refuse to push blind consumption, even if it means being seen as troublesome or overly critical at times!
With an overwhelming number of beauty products saturating the market, how can consumers navigate the choices and make well-informed decisions that align with their individual needs?
I believe it is challenging to wholeheartedly recommend a product. There are as many solutions and treatments as there are different skin types. A brand that works wonders for me may not be suitable for my friends' skin, and it's interesting to see how our opinions sometimes diverge. It's essential to research what you're buying and test products to form your own opinion. Also, this might not be a popular stance, but given the oversaturated market, I find myself often skeptical when an entrepreneur contacts me to talk about their new brand that will supposedly revolutionize the industry. There's a contradiction in terms when it comes to "new eco-responsible brands." If you truly want to be eco-responsible, it starts with producing less or at least in a more conscientious manner.
Influencers and celebrities play a significant role in shaping beauty trends and consumer behavior. How do you perceive their impact on the industry?
Though I may risk sounding repetitive, I must admit I'm somewhat cynical when it comes to celebrity recommendations. Having an insider's perspective on the business and its workings, I know that even mentions of favorite brands in beauty interviews are sometimes monetized, despite their apparent spontaneity. I can't help but smirk when a celebrity, who has undergone multiple lifts and injections, explains that the quality of their skin is attributed to drinking three liters of water a day and their morning lemon-infused drink. As for influencers, my opinion is mixed. There are good ones and plenty of bad ones, just like in any other field. While there are indeed individuals driven by passion, strong convictions, and genuine knowledge, whose advice can be invaluable, there's also a vast sea of influencers who lack consistency, promoting a new brand each week with seemingly little thought or authenticity.
PITCH PLEASE*
PITCH PLEASE*
As the founder of Pitch Please, you collaborate with beauty brands and entrepreneurs to develop compelling editorial content. How does the art of storytelling contribute to creating effective editorial content for beauty and wellness brands?
As journalists, I believe we hold a pivotal role in discerning the content that most effectively augments our writing. This is perhaps why some brands have sought my expertise in refining their editorial strategies following my comprehensive coverage of their products and overall approach. When a brand or its founder tells me, "You perfectly captured our philosophy in your article, could you help us articulate our ideas and approach?" It is the highest praise. This was the case with Sophie Carbonari, one of the pioneering facialists and, in my opinion, the most talented. After publishing her profile, Sophie expressed how much she appreciated my description of her work and asked me to assist her in producing her editorial content. We have since become friends, and she is one of the most authentic and valuable connections I have made in this industry.
As the beauty industry continues to evolve, what advice would you offer to emerging beauty brands seeking to establish their voice and presence through editorial strategies?
It's crucial to surround yourself with writing and editing professionals. Far too many press kits and Instagram posts continue to induce eye rolls. You wouldn't want your brand's press releases to circulate among journalists' WhatsApp groups as a joke.
Maintaining a balance between staying updated on the latest beauty trends and maintaining a personal beauty routine can be challenging. How do you manage this balance, and what principles guide your personal routine?
In the context of my work, I receive an overwhelming amount of solicitations and products, and I'm thrilled about it. However, unless there's a major incompatibility, I set a rule for myself to finish products and complete routines to avoid overwhelming my skin and to truly gauge the effects of the products. I also test out many treatments, but I try to space them out and not succumb to an unbridled wellness quest that would lose its meaning.
In the pursuit of a healthy mind and body, what wellness practices or rituals do you prioritize in your daily life, particularly when faced with a busy schedule?
I remain quite pragmatic and rely on proven techniques. I try to allocate a moment each morning to lie down on my acupressure mat, and I consume a lot of CBD, especially during those intense periods close to a nervous breakdown when I feel like I'm turning into Carolyn Burnham, the brilliant character played by Annette Benning in American Beauty. I also practice heart coherence techniques, which significantly help me during stressful times. As for the rest, the more I age, the more I learn to say no to incessant professional events. I carefully select the ones I attend and refuse to be present at any cost.
With your exposure to a wide range of beauty products, how do you discern which ones are worthy of incorporation into your routine? Are there specific criteria or factors that influence your decision-making process?
I don't have specific criteria, and I'm inherently curious about everything. However, I strive to make more conscious choices. The Yuka app is sometimes criticized, but I believe it is a fantastic tool that has allowed me to eliminate numerous self-proclaimed clean brands that are, in reality, filled with toxic additives and endocrine disruptors.
Based on your extensive experience in beauty journalism, have you come across any hidden gems or lesser-known beauty brands that you personally admire and would recommend to others?
There are so many! Mostly eco-responsible brands, some of which are relatively unknown but have impressed me with their products. NÜSSA Cosmetics, cruelty-free makeup products from Dear Dahlia, the energetic beauty brand Sentara founded by the brilliant Mayia Alleaume, to name just a few. Patyka, REN, Ilia, and the brand new S Serum by Sophie Carbonari have truly given my skin a radiant boost. As for hair, the Japanese Scalp Brush Tokio Inkarami has replaced all my other brushes and has become an essential beauty accessory.